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Glodok Eats – Jakarta’s Chinatown

I’ve always been interested in the concept of “Americanized” cuisine — how a cuisine adapts to a pallet that is different from the one it was created for. This isn’t just limited to America, where our spice tolerance is fairly low overall, in Paris all the fried rice had nice cubes of ham in it. Because, naturally, doesn’t jambon go with soy sauce? So now that I am in closer proximity to China, it was time to see what Indonesian influence had done to Chinese cuisine.

But, since I haven’t been to China yet, it was rather hard to say if there was an Indonesian influence. All I can say is that the dumplings at Santong Kuo Tieh 68 on Jalan Pancoran were delicious. As we walked in, men were rolling out dumpling dough and their fingers nimbly danced back and forth perfectly sealing in the meat.

For about Rp 20,000 to 25,000 ($2.25 to $2.80) you can order a plate of 10 dumplings. We ordered the fried dumplings and the steamed ones, pork of course, as well as the bakso ikan isi – a fish ball stuffed with meat. I’m not a huge pork person, but once something is not readily available, here for religious reasons, you start to crave it.

The fish ball, was one of the most delicious things I have eaten recently. The meat on the inside was seasoned with cinnamon which added a great surprising flavor that was very tasty in a homey way. The standard dipping sauce was delicious; it was a combination of fresh garlic, vinegar, tomato sauce and some sort of chili sauce that I will now be trying to recreate.

After lunch we wandered the market in Chinatown.

The colors, smells, and sounds can be a little bit overwhelming, especially when it’s hot and you are walking in narrow alleys hoping that the motorcycle sound you hear, but don’t see, won’t hit you.

Down one back alley I noticed some pens. When I looked down at first it just looked like wet hay-like material in dirty water. Then something stirred. Yes, those turtles are meant for turtle soup — the man who they belong to confirmed this. I’m actually very curious about how turtle soup tastes, but I was full and the turtles looked sad.

Beautiful giant pomelos:

I have no idea what this fruit is. I asked the man and it was a name that neither Chloe nor I had heard before in Indonesian, and I have since forgotten said name. If anyone knows, let me know — I’d love to taste it (the wasps seemed to like it):

There were many fruit stalls in the back alleys. I love the way Indonesians display bananas:

The streets and alleys around Jalan Pancoran make for a great afternoon of wandering.

10 Comments Post a comment
  1. The fruit above is jackfruit – very tasty stuff (so those were some smart wasps).

    Nice post – really hungry now…

    October 13, 2011
  2. Virna #

    It was ‘Nangka’ as we called it here. Or jackfruit in English ;)

    October 13, 2011
  3. len #

    hi, the fruit that attracts the wasp is called ‘cempedak’ here in Malaysia. it’s info here

    October 13, 2011
    • len #

      sorry *its info

      October 13, 2011
  4. Em #

    The fruit is called jackfruit (langka or nangka) depending which part of Asia you visit.

    October 13, 2011
  5. the fruit you can recall the name, it is Nangka. i think it’s called Jackfruit in English. a mixed taste between sweet and fresh. one of my fave fruit. but, sometimes your hand will get sticky if you eat it. the fruit contain such latex in its rind/skin. nothing poisoning nor destroy the taste, tho. :D

    October 13, 2011
  6. Karime #

    The name of the fruit that you don’t remember is DURIAN it smells kinda bad but it tastes quite sweet!

    October 13, 2011
  7. Lydia #

    Thank you all! I hope to try it soon.

    October 13, 2011
  8. Farah Dompas #

    That fruit is ‘Cempedak’, it has strong flavor and sweet. The flesh can be eaten fresh or you can make deep fried Cempedak fritters. Yumm!

    October 13, 2011
  9. Beverley #

    Durian looks similar, but the sections on the outside are more pronounced or spiky. It is similar to jackfruit, but has a ‘memorable’ odor.

    October 13, 2011

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