Skip to content

An Indonesian Short Story: Magical Burps

Gamalan

Before I continue writing about my travels in Ukraine, I wanted to go back to Indonesia. I’ve been thinking about Indonesia a lot this past week because an important presidential election was just held there and because I just went “back” to Indonesia after reading and reviewing Elizabeth Pisani’s book Indonesia, Etc. The presidential election isn’t quite over because both candidates claimed victory and the official counting won’t be finished for another 10 days. It’s a pivotal moment in Indonesia and all of that got me thinking about my first days there.

So here’s a short story I wrote some time ago about sambal and masuk angin. Enjoy.

 

Magical Burps

The burp caught me off guard. It was my second day in Indonesia and I was busy worrying about lunch, learning a new language and my own foolish decision to accept a yearlong job offer in a country I knew almost nothing about. “They had a dictator named Suharto. It’s the fourth largest country in the world and the most populous Muslim nation. Bali is there. And, it’s going to be hot,” I told my friends in a self-assured tone that was masking all of my deepest fears.

On my first day in one of the hottest countries I had ever allowed my pale, prone-to-burning body to enter, I had gone to lunch with teachers and students from my language school. “Sambal,” my teacher Asti said as she handed me a plastic bowl with a red substance inside. I had watched as everyone else at the table took two, three, four or even five spoonfuls of the red sauce and dumped it on top of their plates full of rice, vegetables and meat. Two spoonfuls later, I was a total wreck. My pale skin had turned bright red, I was sweating profusely and I was desperately trying to hold back tears. “You like spicy food? You like chili pepper sauce?” Asti asked. Why, oh why, hadn’t she asked this a minute earlier?

The loud, deep burp interrupted my painful recollection of lunch. I was startled. I looked over and saw a group of middle aged motorcycle taxi drivers sitting with their tank tops rolled up over their bellies while smoking clove cigarettes that created clouds of intoxicating smelling smoke. As soon as they noticed me, the shouts of “Hello, Mrs.! Where are you going?” and “Beautiful” started. And then, one of the drivers burped again.

Motorcycle Blur

 

Oui, people they burp here. It’s not impoli,” a French woman at the language school told me. “Things are different here. You know people here believe in ghosts and magic.”

“What do you mean ghosts and magic?” I asked.

“My Indonesian housekeeper tells me stories all the time about ghosts. Ghosts that sneak into homes and people accidentally sleep with them. You know they have sex,” she said. “It’s true what I tell you, I can see you don’t believe me.”

Temple

I didn’t believe in ghosts or magic powers, although I did now believe in death by sambal.

After a week of language classes I moved to the traffic-clogged, smog-choked capital of Indonesia, Jakarta, and started work as an editor at an English-language newspaper. The pollution in Jakarta is notorious and with all the sambal and smog my body was starting to break down. I developed a hacking cough and terrified everyone I interacted with. I became a pariah in the newsroom.

Jakarta

“We should go get massages,” Niar exclaimed. Niar was my ebullient language tutor I had met through a friend in Jakarta. She was also my source on all things Indonesian: politics, religion, food and batik fashion.

“We’ll go to a place in my neighborhood. It’s very clean and very cheap. And you’ll relax,” she said.

I coughed for the hundredth time that day.

“We are going tomorrow,” Niar said. “You need to relax and you’ll feel better.”

I had no choice.

The salon was located on a somewhat quiet street in the Tebet neighborhood of South Jakarta. In a city of over 10 million people full of motorcycles and mosques with loud speakers, it never is completely quiet. Niar had been born and raised in this area and she promised we’d have lunch and look around after. As soon as I heard the word “lunch” I started thinking of sambal.

Our masseuses met us and led us to an area with two beds separated by a screen. As the floral-scented oil was rubbed into my back I began to drift off.

Then, catching me completely off guard in a state of aromatherapy bliss, it happened. My masseuse burped. Then she burped again. And a third time. Maybe she had just had lunch? Maybe she was pregnant? After the tenth burp I was getting worried. The burps were moderate both in sound and size. Was she ill? Did she need to take a break? The burps kept coming and now I was just as impressed, as I was worried.

Niar spoke to me through the screen, “Lydia, are you O.K.?”

“Well, I’m fine, but, um, I don’t know if the masseuse is.”

A swift exchange between Niar and the masseuse in question transpired in Indonesian and then Niar said, “The masseuse wants to know if you’ve been feeling sick lately.”

“I’ve had a bad cough.”

“Yes, she says your body is full of bad wind,” Niar said. “She is transferring all of the bad air from your body out through her body, that is why she is burping.”

“Oh,” I said.

I couldn’t think of anything else to say. For the next 50 minutes I lay there perplexed with a background soundtrack of soothing bamboo music from the speaker system accompanied by intermittent burping. When the massage ended, I was genuinely confused — how much do you tip someone for transferring bad wind out of your body through their body?

At lunch I asked Niar to tell me more.

“What just happened?” I asked. “I don’t think I understand.”

Masuk angin,” she said. “Bad wind. Literally it means that wind entered your body. But it was bad wind. Your masseuse was special. She is gifted and she has a sixth sense. She told a woman last week not to take a motorcycle taxi because she had a bad feeling.”

“What happened?” I asked.

“Well the woman got in an accident,” Niar said. “Sambal?” Niar offered me the bowl.

“Yes, thank you,” I said, grabbing the spoon and covering my food in my continuing effort to build up a spice tolerance.

“You’ll feel better tomorrow,” Niar said with confidence.

The next day I woke up and my cough was gone. Was it magic? Was it masuk angin? I’d never get answers that would satisfy me. So I decided to accept that sometimes things work in mysterious ways — burps and all.

Durian

7 Comments Post a comment
  1. Great story. Indonesia is one of the most fascinating places on the planet.

    July 13, 2014
  2. That was beautifully written, Lydia. It took me right back to Indonesia although I haven’t had any personal experiences pointing to masuk angin. That said, a common theme encountered throughout my trips there is a real belief in the supernatural – talk of ghosts, djinns, spirit palaces on mountaintops and so forth. Then there are all the traditional cures and medicines. While we were waiting at the airport in Surabaya, Bama pointed out a woman several rows in front whose lower neck/shoulder area was being rubbed red by a coin. He told me it was a common way to fight off masuk angin.

    Also, I can completely relate to your initial reaction to sambal. It took me two months and a bottle of ibu cap jari (introducing it into almost every meal) to build up my spice tolerance. Now, after several trips around Indonesia, I can’t seem to live without sambal… at home I even have several bottles stashed away in the kitchen!

    It sounds like I will love reading Indonesia, Etc. My editor at work recommended it the other day and your review was very positive too. I’ll keep an eye out for it the next time I go to a bookstore.

    July 13, 2014
    • Ha, I built up a tolerance too and add several spoonfuls of sambal to fried rice and stir fry.

      Yes, I really enjoyed the book. She travels to many places I have never been to so it’s familiar and foreign at the same time.

      July 13, 2014
  3. Lydia, I have to admit that I kept chuckling when I was reading this post, because even though I don’t believe in such thing as masuk angin – neither do my parents to some extent – it is indeed very Indonesian. Did you notice that we have advertised herbal treatments with big names such as Tolak Angin (literally ‘reject the wind’) and Antangin (from anti-angin, ‘antiwind’)?

    As for sambal, it is usually one thing I miss the most every time I travel abroad. There was one time when I traveled to Europe with some relatives for one month and didn’t have sambal for two weeks. Then when we were in Brussels we stayed at the house of an Indonesian acquaintance. His wife cooked telur balado (eggs generously smothered in ground chili paste) for us, and the moment I had it I realized how much I missed spicy food. Sambal is indeed one thing most Indonesians can’t live without.

    July 13, 2014
    • Ha, yes I love all the jamu and other treatment names. I built up quite a tolerance to sambal and it made me realize how many other cuisines, while savory, lack heat. After a few days here in the US of unspicy food I always need a fix.

      July 13, 2014
  4. Amazing!

    July 13, 2014
  5. I truly enjoy your writing. Very engaging indeed. Death by sambal, that is the first I heard of such. I am indonesian myself although living oversea all my life. Masuk angin is similar to stomach wind or fatigue, massage does help that. Although this is my first time hearing a masseuse transferring a bad wind to herself. Interesting!

    July 13, 2014

What do you think? Leave a reply, comment or witty remark:

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out / Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out / Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out / Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out / Change )

Connecting to %s

Follow

Get every new post delivered to your Inbox.

Join 1,214 other followers

%d bloggers like this: